Sinorn Borbor Monsrae

Fish Borbor with Cha Kway at Sinorn Borbor Monsrae

Down one of the quieter streets in Siem Reap, but close enough to the action, lies a small (ish) restaurant that serves up borbor, like none other I have ever tried. One spoonful of this soupy rice porridge has the power to transport you to someone's home with the dusty red floor beneath your feet, observing a weathered skin grandmother with glistening kind eyes, cooking this comforting creation of goodness over a charcoal stove.

What is bor bor?

Borbor is essentially a rice porridge that is of a soupier consistency than its distant relatives in Thailand (Jok), Vietnam (Cháo), and China (Congee). The rice grains in borbor swim separately in a bowl of umami-rich broth that is bursting with flavours of chicken stock, pepper, and a hint of MSG.

It is an extremely affordable Cambodian breakfast dish that is served with cha kway (Khmer: ឆាខ្វៃ) (fried dough sticks) and a myriad of condiments including red chilli paste, preserved soybeans, pickled garlic, and small pickled chillies.  

Borbor is culturally significant using the country's most important crop (rice) and is a symbol of community and togetherness. It is prepared for religious ceremonies and celebrations throughout the year.

Sona, the master of borbor, is keeping her family’s tradition alive in the heart of Siem Reap. Sinorn Borbor Monsrae started many years ago in a small village on the outskirts of the city and back then, it was made by Sona’s mother who used pork, a much cheaper protein to sell to the locals in the village.

Sona, Chamrong and Sinorn

When you visit the restaurant, you will most likely run into one or more of the 8 siblings Sona has. While Sinorn has stepped back from the borbor duties, she is still present in the restaurant as well Chamrong, Sona’s brother who is a trained chef and prepares the other dishes on the menu such as Cambodian beef lok lak and a pretty mean fried rice.

Sinorn Bor Bor Monsrae is a perfect example that good food does not have to be fancy and should be accessible to all. From the friendly smiles of the family that has built this business, to the delicious consistency of the food, I keep returning because of how the place makes me feel; welcomed, at home, and part of the family.

Sinorn borbor Monsrae សុីណន បបរមាន់ស្រែ
Stueng Thmei Stueng Thmei Siem reap, 17252
Monday to Sunday 7am-8pm
+855 0965557444
Click on the map HERE

Sona’s sister, whom the shop is named after, adapted her mother’s traditional recipe by adding some extra umami kick to the broth, including dried seafood (I won’t disclose her secret!), to the mother stock. Their first shop in the city opened in 2000 and was on the other side of the river near Wat Bo until they moved closer to Pub Street. In 2020, Sona took over the responsibility of making the borbor and she dreams of expanding the business into another outlet, yet this is quite challenging due to the high and low seasons that are drastically prevalent in a tourist town like Siem Reap. Sona prepares the borbor with so much passion and kindness, that you can feel the comfort when you take each slurp of the delicious rice soup.

As I continue to ask questions and observe Sona preparing her signature borbor, she calmly and swiftly tends to the customers that walk in as well as the food delivery orders that ping through on her phone. She is constantly smiling, talking about her dish and her dreams for the future.

The shop opens at every day at 7 am sharp and prior to this, Sona gathers the fresh ingredients at the local market that are needed to make the soup. The borbor takes about an hour to cook and she also has to prepare the proteins and toppings for the dish – fresh Khmer chicken and fresh river fish. She works swiftly and precisely, relying on eye, practice, and intuition which is the key to her consistent flavourful dish.

Khmer Chicken, one of the ingredients that make Sona’s borbor so delicious

Sona swiftly and precisely showed me how her borbor is made - and always with a smile on her face.
Credit: Victoria Miloschewsky

Learn more about Cambodian Dishes Below

What is Cambodian Beef Lok Lak?

Beef Lok Lak is a classic and comforting dish that finds its unofficial roots in Cambodia. It is a dish that is simple and popular amongst locals and tourists throughout Cambodia but a variation of it can also be found in Vietnam.

The Vietnamese version is called Bò lúc lắc which means shaking beef in reference to the beef being stir-fried quickly in a wok. There are other theories on how the dish was called lok lak; it could have possibly been derived from the French word 'l’escalope’ or possibly the Chinese word ‘lu’ meaning to stir-fry.

Despite the simplicity of this dish, it is possible to be poorly executed in the wrong hands. The importance is in the quality of ingredients, cooking time and the right balance of pepper and citrus. The element that makes Cambodian Lok Lak so very special is the use of the country’s world renown Kampot pepper.

This dish points strongly to Chinese heritage with its cooking method of stir-frying and the use soy sauce in the marinade. The Chinese have had an influence on Cambodia’s history dating back to the 13th Century, prior to the Angkor empire, when they were based at the capital ‘Funan’ at Angkor Borei in the Takeo province. Their entry point into Cambodia was also alongside the Indians as traders of silk, spices, wood, gold, and ivory around the 1st Century CE.

Pou Lok Lak

The original and most common Lok Lak is made with beef; however, restaurants now offer variations of the dish. Cambodian cuisine to this day still relies heavily on freshwater fish and was the original and most abundant protein source. Other proteins are readily available today, including beef. Cattle were initially used to work on the land and consumption of meat product and dairy was secondary. During the French colonial period in Cambodia, a variety of cattle breeds were introduced from Europe and were bred specifically for dairy and meat on a larger scale.  

The most important ingredient in beef Lok Lak is Kampot pepper. There is no other pepper in the world like it as it is grown in a unique area and terroir at the base of the Elephant Mountains. It is an internationally recognised gourmet product that has Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status which guarantees high-quality standards in farming techniques and methods. There are a few companies that sell red, black and white pepper varieties, the most flavourful and 100% organic I have tried is Hong Spices.

How to make Cambodian Lok Lak

Ideally, a good sirloin or ribeye will make a delicious lok lak, it is then cut into cubes and marinated in a mixture of rice wine vinegar, soy, garlic, oyster sauce, a small amount of cornstarch, and sugar. The beef can be stir-fried with green peppercorns quickly and then tossed with thinly sliced raw white onions. It is then plated next to a good mound of white rice, decorated with red tomatoes, cucumber, and lettuce as well as a fried egg.
The dipping sauce that accompanies beef lok lak is a mixture of salt, pepper, and lime juice. Add chilli if you need it!

After eating a bunch of Lok Lak in Cambodia, in particular, Siem Reap, I’ve summed up a few places you can go and try when you are there. The below recommendations are subjective (like art!) and range in pricing from about $3 USD upwards.

Chanrey Tree

This restaurant is set in a beautiful traditional Khmer house by the river and serves traditional countryside cuisine. The waiters are well-versed in Cambodian cuisine and ingredients (I asked them a bunch of questions) and it makes for a little more of an upmarket meal out.
Price: $10.50usd
Address: Pokombo Ave, along Siem Reap riverside, 50m before Preah Prum Rath pagoda

Credit: Chanrey tree Lok Lak

Khmer Kitchen

Started by Perk Sophal, this restaurant is located in the tourist area, and offers a large variety of Khmer dishes for decent prices. The service is quick, but you will be eating amongst a lot of other foreigners. Worth a try if you are wandering around the Old Market or heading out to Pub Street later.
Price: $5.50usd
Address: Corner of 2 Thnou Street & Street 9, Old Market, Siem Reap

Credit: Khmer Kitchen

Pou Kitchen and Cafe

This restaurant is run by Chef Mengly and his team of young talented chefs. While keeping the classic flavours of Khmer cuisine, he adapts the dishes to a modern form that is innovative yet still approachable. Try a little something out of your comfort zone here like a roasted beehive!
Price: $7.88
Address:557 Wat Bo Road, Krong Siem Reap Cambodia

Sinorn Bor Bor Monsrae

This local gem was a true find and is run by siblings. It is frequented mostly by locals and is known for its signature bor bor which is delicious. The beef lok lak here is really good too and made with a lot of love and care and it is extremely well-priced.
Price: $3
Address: Stueng Thmei Stueng Thmei Siem reap, 17252, Cambodia

The Sugar Palm

Known to many in Siem Reap as the OG of Khmer cuisine. It was opened by Chef Kethana who was born in Cambodia yet spent many years in New Zealand during the troubled times of the late 1970s. This restaurant serves the classics very well!
Price: $7
Address:Street 27, Siem Reap, Cambodia, (opposite Pannasastra University)

Tevy’s Place

This affordable local place is run by women and wonderful service. The food is simple and good and has dishes to suit anyone’s craving.
Price: $3.50
Address: Street 26, Krong Siem Reap, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Mekola

A really good local place that serves a great bai sach chrouk (pork rice) and the portions are really generous. Run out of the bottom of someone’s house and the whole family pitches in to cook and serve tables.
Price: $3
Address:9V46+V2Q, Wat Bo Rd, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia

Learn more about Vietnamese Dishes Below