Bánh tráng mè (roasted black sesame rice paper)

It was one of those days in Vietnam where I just wanted to walk and explore… there was nothing on the agenda (lucky me) and the weather was nice and cool and finally not raining. Here I am in Danang, a coastal city in the heart of Central Vietnam.

It was reasonably early in the morning, yet the streets were already bustling – this is what I love about Vietnam, and it is always good to get up and grab some street food for breakfast because those particular stalls only open for a few hours and will either close for the remainder of the day or change to sell another specific dish in the evening.

Crossing the streets in Vietnam is never pleasant, you must look both ways and just keep steadily walking along, even though the traffic in Danang is fairly passive, the same unspoken road rules apply between driver and pedestrian, go but go with steady caution.

I walked down the main road and turned down a picturesque street, taking photos of laundry hanging outside people’s houses, I know it’s weird, but I am fascinated by the colours, textures, and simple elements of everyday life in Vietnam. I stopped to see a few racks of rice paper sheets drying in the sun, as I walked closer, I saw a mini handmade production of bánh tráng mè in the process. I stopped to watch for a good 30 minutes and spoke to the daughter of the owner, who spoke perfect English beautifully.

What is bánh tráng mè

Bánh tráng mè was once a simple snack that was portable, easy to keep, and provided fast and efficient sustenance for labourers and workers. It then became a staple in the everyday diet, as an accompaniment to dishes and even a perfect pairing with beer.

The deliciousness ( yes this is a word) is prevalent in its simplicity. A batter of rice flour and water is mixed with roasted black sesame seeds, with just a touch of sugar.  It is then thinly ladled onto cast iron pans that are heated by an open charcoal fire. When the batter is heated through, it is carefully taken off with a stick and placed flat on a large wooden frame to dry out in the sun.

When the rice paper is completely dry, it is taken off, stacked, and packaged, ready to be dispatched to the markets and restaurants. I was fascinated by how methodical and quick this little home factory made the bánh tráng mè, years of practice resulted in a beautifully timed choreography.

The last process of Bánh tráng mè lies with the end consumer. It is heated over coals or on a grill until it puffs up and is slightly golden, then served on its own, with a variety of sauces, soup, or noodles.

Tasty bánh tráng mè

The owners daughter said they produce about 500 of Bánh tráng mè a day and they are one of the few places that make it by hand in Danang. The method has gone to mass manufacturing to provide consistency and quantity for the increasing number of restaurants that are constantly popping up in Vietnam.

“Here, try one” I took the bánh tráng mè ever so gratefully and took my first crunchy bite, maybe it was because I had seen them made in front of me or my heart was full from the genuine conversation exchange, it was the best bánh tráng mè I had tasted.

We said our goodbyes and I turned to walk down the street, they continued to make that bánh tráng mè, like they have done for the past 20 years.

Laying out the recently steamed bánh tráng mè

Bánh tráng mè drying

Beyond Banh Mi

The image of a medium-sized baguette stuffed with pate, pork, pickled vegetables, and herbs springs to mind when one recalls the top dishes to eat in Vietnam. Stretching from the North to the South of Vietnam, Banh Mi is found on every street corner in any variation you can think of.

However, the image of this well-known sandwich is not entirely incorrect relating to the name, the word bánh mì (or Banh My further in the north), can be translated to ‘wheat bread’. This crispy lightly browned oval-shaped loaf with a pillowy white interior is an integral part of the Vietnamese diet, yet this was not the case before the mid-1800s.

How bread became a staple in the Vietnamese Diet.

The French colonisation that began in the mid-17th century and expanded over the next 6 decades, coloured the pre-existing culture of Vietnam, initially forcefully, yet it has now become intertwined into the charm and vibrance the country emits through its architecture, fashion, religion, language a,nd most importantly, food.

During the vast amount of time that the French were in Vietnam up until the Geneva Accord in 1954, they brought a variety of cooking techniques and ingredients that changed the Vietnamese culinary landscape. Coffee, French-style pastries, pate, mayonnaise, cold cuts, and bread were among some of the food products that were consumed every day in Vietnam, initially by the more elite locals and eventually distributed into the everyday life of all Vietnamese.

What Makes Banh Mi so unique?

Bread was assimilated into the Vietnamese diet quite rapidly due to the accessibility of low-cost ingredients used to produce it. The French baguette that once was, slowly morphed into a Vietnamese baguette. The more traditional slower method of fermenting dough naturally was hastened with the use of yeast, reducing preparation time, and changing the structure of the bread resulting in a thin golden crispy crust enveloping a fluffy interior.
This is the Banh Mi as we know it today and has become an integral part of many of Vietnam’s dishes.

BO KHO

A dish originating in the south of Vietnam, Bò kho, directly translated to ‘beef stew’ is a mixture of warm spices, vegetables, tomatoes, and beef that has a unique taste that slightly varies in different regions around the country.  The word Kho describes the braising technique used to make this dish which is traditionally made in a clay pot.

The base protein of Bo Kho is selected prime cuts of beef such as brisket and shank, which play a crucial role in the dish’s overall flavour and texture. Through the gradual breakdown of connective tissues, these beef cuts contribute to a tender and ‘pull-apart’ texture when cooked.

Bo Kho holds strong similarities to the French dish Pot-au-feu, yet the warm spices of cinnamon and cloves combined with ginger, lemongrass, and nuoc mam make it a unique Southeast Asian dish. Onions, carrots, and tomatoes are included in the dish imparting a slight sweetness. Bo Kho can be served with rice noodles, yet it is commonly eaten with a Banh Mi or two on the side, topped with fresh crisp herbs, beansprouts, and of course, some extra chilli.  

BO KHO. Credit @www.cooking-therapy.com

CA RI GA

Chicken curry is a dish that is common in many countries around the world, yet each variation is different depending on the method, ingredients used, and the historical influences of a dish.

Ca Ri Ga in Vietnam is no exception, reflecting southern Indian flavours of turmeric, cumin, cardamom, cumin, and a hint of chilli. The Tamil culture had a strong impact on Vietnamese food and culture during the colonial period when the French colonies of Pondicherry immigrated to the south of Vietnam. During this time, they established a variety of trade businesses and also contributed to the finance and education sector. Despite the diminished presence of the Tamils over time, the influence is still found in dishes like Ca Ri Ga.

The bone-in chicken is marinated with dry spices and simmered in a coconut-based sauce, alongside lemongrass, sugar, and fish sauce. Sweet root vegetables such as carrots and potatoes are added for texture, and most importantly, Ca Ri Ga is served with Banh Mi, an essential element to soak up every bit of the thick, sweet, and savoury sauce.

Banh Mi Chao

BANH MI CHAO

A sizzling plate of fried eggs, luncheon meat, pate, mayonnaise, pickled daikon, and carrot is not complete without a side of Banh Mi.

This simple and delicious plate of eggs, herbs and meat is a popular breakfast dish, sometimes known as Banh Mi Op La. Undoubtedly another dish influenced by the French quite possibly from ‘oeufs au plat’, meaning sunny-side-up eggs.

It is both the experience and the ingredients in Banh Mi Chao that makes it so unique. When your made-to-order breakfast arrives at the table, it anticipates a good squirt of soy sauce and chilli sauce before dunking a crusty banh mi to soak up the rich fatty goodness.

From a French crusty baguette import to a softer, airy Vietnamese baguette, Banh Mi is as much of a staple to the Vietnamese diet as rice and noodles. Not only as an accompaniment to dishes but as a meal (banh mi sandwich) or a sweet treat (banh mi with condensed milk), Banh Mi is a result of a small part of the evolution of Vietnam’s culinary history.

What is Bánh Căn?

Bánh Căn is a unique dish not to be confused with the noodle dish, Bánh Cănh (see the ‘h’ at the end of the ‘can’ makes all the difference). To be honest, I had never seen this dish before despite travelling to Vietnam in 2012 and 2018. It is a wonderfully theatrical dish that is expertly made with precision, skill and speed. Bánh Căn is originally of the Cham minority people in the Ninh Thuan Province.

Nha Trang, Dalat and Phan Rang have their own versions of this dish, however the foundation of it is made out of cooked rice that is blended and sun-dried rice flour is added to create a crispy, yet fluffy omelette-type cake. There are a few cities that make Bánh Căn, differing in size, cooking technique, ingredients used, and each vendor will put their own signature spin on it.

In Saigon, you will find a similar dish known as Bánh khọt, this version is eaten with different sauces, ingredients and the base is made with fried rice flour, turmeric and coconut. Bánh khọt is either cooked in a cast iron dish and not necessarily over charcoal or fried.

How is Bánh Căn made?

Bánh căn is a unique dish that requires a very specific cooking mold and these vary in size. It is essentially a large terracotta plate made by Cham potters with several circles cut out of the inside. These holes are filled with small terracotta dishes that all have little hat type lids with handles that fit on top. The entire plate sits above red-hot burning coals to impart the perfect charcoal flavour.

The rice flour batter is poured into each mold until it curls up around the sides and starts to bubble, the toppings are then added whether it be a simple quail egg, minced meat or seafood. The lids are placed on top of the the inserts until the batter and toppings are cooked through.

Dalat Bánh Căn

Dalat city sits 1500 metres above sea level within the Southern Central highlands. A city of contrasting architecture, beautiful landscape, it is home to the most beautiful produce in Vietnam that grows all year round. The weather is much cooler in Dalat, and this is a reflection of the dishes that are found in and around the city, and Dalat Bánh căn is no exception. The steaming hot rice cakes are piled on top of each other and look like a mini burger. The simpler versions of Dalat Bánh Căn contain a quail egg and served with a dipping sauce that could easily be mistaken as a soup. The dipping sauce is made with fish sauce or fermented shrimp paste, green onions, and can sometimes contain pork meatballs within or on the side. Some places in Dalat serve Bánh Căn with ham and a glass of fresh soy milk to go with it.

Nha Trang Bánh Căn

The Banh Can here is iconic. Following the rice flour base, the toppings are loaded with huge prawns, minced meat, eggs, squid or octopus. The dipping sauce is sweet and savoury with fish sauce, green onions, sugar and is perfect with just a little bit of chilli. The pork meatballs in the dipping sauce are sometimes cooked over charcoal imparting a delightful smoky flavour. Alongside the dipping sauce, shredded green mango is served which you can either throw in your dipping sauce or use to cleanse your palate – anything goes!

Phan Rang Bánh Căn

Pahn Rang is quite close to Nha Trang so there are a lot of similarities between how these two towns serve the dish. Here, the rice – omelette cake things can be served with a variety of fish sauce based dipping sauces that can be sweet, sour or even have peanuts added to them. Green mango is also served with the Phan Rang Banh Can, and sometimes some greens which you can wrap them in.

Bánh Căn is also found in major cities from Danang all the way to Saigon, I would have to say my favourite place to eat them was in Nha Trang, yet every vendor has their own spin on this wonderfully unique Central Vietnam dish. You must try it when you are here – and tell me what you think!!!